wouldn't you want to become an expert on cameos?

L to R: molded milk glass female on black glass background; Medusa defeated, material unknown; floral cameo on shell background; Art Nouveau style woman's profile in sardonyx [photos from the Web]

Two weekends ago when I was doing the Market NYC, I overheard one shopper ask,

"Do you have any cameos? I collect them. I buy them at antique stores mostly. My favorites are the cameos made out of 'jet' which come from Victorian England in the 19th century."

I must admit, in that moment I wanted to become an expert on cameo jewelry. It would be fun party conversation, if nothing else. I learned that 'jet' is fossilized coal mined in Whitby, England, and used in mourning jewelry in the Victorian era (1837-1901). Fascinating! Here is a bit more of what I learned.


The precursor to the cameo was the intaglio, a piece that was carved below the surface. First used to make an impression in hot wax to seal documents, the intaglio was later worn as jewelry. The cameo is created also by carving but in relief (not bas or below), using a contrasting material as the background. Some popular materials used to make cameos include shell (worn for day), lava, coral, stone and gemstones (worn at the most formal occasions). Cameos have been produced in ancient Greece and Rome, and revived in England, Italy and Germany, from the early Renaissance to the Victorian era to today. Subjects have varied from pastoral scenes, floral motifs to Greek gods, to the most recognizable: the bust portrait of a woman in profile.

I found the following to be an interesting tidbit on dating cameos:

"The long Roman nose denotes that the piece was originated before 1850. If the nose is slightly upturned, it can be dated after the mid-nineteenth century. A pert nose is indicative of the turn of the century. An upswept hairstyle indicates a late Victorian cameo, while shorter curls are indicative of the 20th century." [source: victorianbazaar.com, "The Historical Cameo"]

I include some various examples of cameos for you to peruse. They are really quite beautiful when you slow down and consider each piece. Here is a wonderful site to see many variations of cameo jewelry. And then do check out our new Cameo Tops, which are loosely based on the form. Ours are decidedly East-meets-West-meets-Victorian. Quite a permutation.